Category: Erie Canal

The End of an Era

That’s it – we’re done.  We’re back home.  Obviously, we haven’t been blogging…we’ve been in a weird head space.

 

It was emotional coming home…With every week on the ICW, we got a little closer to our return to society…to normal life.  Oddly enough, as we got closer, we became more and more accustomed to life on the boat.  We got better at reading the weather, more comfortable with things breaking, less bothered by delays…It was starting to get easier, and we were starting to figure it out.  WE WERE HAVING FUN!  MJSailing always said it takes a year before you really get into the groove, and we now understand what they meant.  It was getting good.

 

Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end.

 

We returned to the Mentor Harbor Yachting Club on July 16, 2015.  My folks threw a huge party and really made us feel welcome!  We had cake and expensive champagne.  We put on our smiles for the cameras.  It was amazing, but it really hit us hard – it was the end of an era.  Had we done everything we wanted to do?

 

Honestly, after TARA was safely tied up, we didn’t go back down to the boat for two months – not because we were sick of sailing, more that it was too emotional to be on Tara after living aboard for 10 months.  We couldn’t see her stuck in a marina…or something…

 

It has taken us some time to decompress, think about what we’ve done, and absorb all of the crazy adventures.  In the end, as expected, the hard times have turned into amazing stories that we reminisce about again and again.  In the end, IT WAS WORTH IT.

 

We’re happy to be back to a big bed and hot showers.  We have a comfortable place to live (thanks Mom & Dad!) and a nice grocery store around the corner.  Life is good – we’re home safe and have a lot of incredible memories.

 

In other ways, we are sad.  Operation Tropication has ended.  We know if we did it again, we would do a lot of things differently…we know we would do it BETTER…but that’s life right?  There’s always an opportunity to do it better, no?
Now it’s November.  Many of the friends we met along the way are probably down on their boats now, preparing for their crossing to the Bahamas and beyond.  Many of them are “snowbirds”, which we used to think was a dirty word, but now we have learned to appreciate.

 

We have started looking at boats/magazines/blogs again, thinking about the next adventure.  The reality is – once sailing is in your blood, there’s no escaping it.

 

COMMENCE PHOTO SEQUENCE:

SURFS UP! Folly Beach

SURFS UP! Folly Beach

Haaaaapppppyyyy

Haaaaapppppyyyy

Rent a car and drive to Trader Joes, only to find out it's a freakin' used furniture shop. FAIL.

Rent a car and drive to Trader Joes, only to find out it’s a freakin’ used furniture shop. FAIL.

Sitting in St. Johns Yacht Harbour while the years first tropical storm brews offshore

Sitting in St. Johns Yacht Harbour while the years first tropical storm brews offshore

Mark's first haircut in a long time

Mark’s first haircut in a long time

We love Charleston. Have we mentioned that before?

We love Charleston. Have we mentioned that before?

Virginia

Virginia

AMERICA HAS TOUCH SCREENS TO ORDER DRINKS?!

AMERICA HAS TOUCH SCREENS TO ORDER DRINKS?!

AMERICA HAS CHEAP PIZZA?!

AMERICA HAS CHEAP PIZZA?!

WTF?

WTF?

Front approaching. Nature rules.

Front approaching. Nature rules.

Gearin' up

Gearin’ up

Lovely spring day in the Chesapeake (it got much worse from here).

Lovely spring day in the Chesapeake (it got much worse from here).

Pops happy to be aboard!

Pops happy to be aboard!

Family sail in the Potomac

Family sail in the Potomac

Happy Spinnaker Dad!

Happy Spinnaker Dad!

First Maryland Crab Experience. Holy Old Bay

First Maryland Crab Experience. Holy Old Bay

St. Augustine

Annapolis

Amazing sky in Rock Hall, MD

Amazing sky in Rock Hall, MD

Amazing sky in Rock Hall, MD cont'd

Amazing sky in Rock Hall, MD cont’d

Racing a major freighter into the C&D Canal

Racing a major freighter into the C&D Canal

We were pretending there was an apostrophe in there. D'Urban Highway. Say it with us. D'Urban.

We were pretending there was an apostrophe in there. D’Urban Highway. Say it with us. D’Urban.

Overnighter! Dark night up the NJ Coast

Overnighter! Dark night up the NJ Coast

Calm Foggy Morning - NJ Coast

Calm Foggy Morning – NJ Coast

FOG HORNS

FOG HORNS

Genoa blaster into Sandy Hook

Genoa blaster into Sandy Hook

33 hours, 170 miles, First overnight sail. Tired n' thirsty

33 hours, 170 miles, First overnight sail. Tired n’ thirsty

BACK TO NYC!

BACK TO NYC!

Printing this and putting it on the wall.

Printing this and putting it on the wall.

Splurging in the city :)

Splurging in the city :)

Continental

Continental

AirBNB loft in Brooklyn. Thanks to our host!

AirBNB loft in Brooklyn. Thanks to our host!

Picnic in the city

Picnic in the city

Cold grey megacity

Cold grey megacity

Liberte

Liberte

Weird Panorama

Weird Panorama

Threading the needle

Threading the needle

Happy/Cold

Happy/Cold

Get your sway on

Get your sway on

WRITE IT DOWN OR FORGET IT

WRITE IT DOWN OR FORGET IT

There's the sun!

There’s the sun!

Back to Catskill

Back to Catskill

Found our stands (amongst the chaos)

Found our stands (amongst the chaos)

Awww yeah

Awww yeah

Spring has sprung!

Spring has sprung!

Damn. Mast down again

Damn. Mast down again

Passing our old friends When and If in Albany! Pretty with the mast(s) up.

Passing our old friends When and If in Albany! Pretty with the mast(s) up.

Lock 1

Lock 1

Rainy barbee solution

Rainy barbee solution

Free docks are great

Free docks are great

Glassy mornings

Glassy mornings

During our trip we were pessimists, optimists and realists.

During our trip we were pessimists, optimists and realists.

High water delay in the ICW = visit home!

High water delay in the ICW = visit home!

Nice to be back :)

Nice to be back :)

Summer backyard greenspace

Summer backyard greenspace

Caitie gets her hair did

Caitie gets her hair did

West Virginia

West Virginia

Sister time at the lake for July 4th!

Sister time at the lake for July 4th!

Saucy Ladies

Saucy Ladies

Sistertrip to Charleston!

Sistertrip to Charleston!

Rocking our July 4th swag

Rocking our July 4th swag

Mad Dog

Mad Dog

Reliving University

Reliving University

Grillmaster

Grillmaster

I wish I looked as hot as she does

I wish I looked as hot as she does

Snoozin'

Snoozin’

Spirit Cake! Cousins!

Spirit Cake! Cousins!

:(

:(

Heart Steaked Box

Heart Steaked Box

Rainy motoring in the ditch

Rainy motoring in the ditch

Casual

Casual

Young punks. The kid second from the right is giving us the finger.

Young punks. The kid second from the right is giving us the finger.

Vintage postcard moment - Holley, NY

Vintage postcard moment – Holley, NY

Who knew?

Who knew?

Happy Place

Happy Place

'Yonce

‘Yonce

Gorgeous weather - Eastern half of the canal.

Gorgeous weather – Eastern half of the canal.

Last two locks - LOCKPORT, NY

Last two locks – LOCKPORT, NY

This is it!

This is it!

They had a disagreement

They had a disagreement

#Enhance

#Enhance

First "Canadian" in a loooong time

First “Canadian” in a loooong time

Tasty

Tasty

MAST BACK UP! Buffalo, NY

MAST BACK UP! Buffalo, NY

Wally workin' on the radar

Wally workin’ on the radar

Doing what he does best

Doing what he does best

Last night - Erie, PA

Last night – Erie, PA

Product placement

Product placement

Don't bug me before coffee

Don’t bug me before coffee

Mmmm...Cake

Mmmm…Cake

MHYC we have arrived

MHYC we have arrived

Smile for the camera!

Smile for the camera!

 

When and If

So we rocked the locks.  Awesome.   Done and dusted.

The most amazing part was that the weather held out for us the WHOLE time as we went through the canal.  Those photos of tank tops, sunscreen, and bandanas?  Yeah they were real, but don’t worry we’re rocking the warm gear now…

When we were finally spit out into the Hudson, we decided that we’d earned a chill day.  After a week of averaging over 50 miles a day, we were actually pretty tired…WATERFORD was the spot.  There was rain in the forecast, so we cranked up the iPads for an afternoon of decompressing….ahhhhhh

The highlight of the stop (and the only thing I shot photos of) was the gorgeous 1939 John Alden designed 63-foot wooden schooner that was docked next to us.  We instantly made friends with Doug, Ron, Bill, and Larry and were graciously hosted by (Captain) Ron for dinner aboard on Saturday night.  This boat is amazing – has been completely restored from the ground up over the past two years.  Check out their Facebook page or this story for photos and info on this massive project.

Much thanks to Ron, Doug, and the crew!  I hope to see them (and the boat with the masts up) down south sometime soon :)

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TOMORROW IS RE-STEP DAY for the mast.  I’m not nervous.  No really!  I’m not.

LOCKTOBERfest / OPTROP’s Guide on how to transit an Erie Canal lock

We’ve now transitted 35 locks of the New York State Canal System, through the Erie Canal from Buffalo to Albany, NY, and frankly we are quite happy to be done with elevation change for a while.Why are we so relieved to be out?  Because going through locks is tiring, tedious and dangerous (more so than we originally thought).  Effectively, your boat (along with a few others) will enter a cement chamber ~300 feet long x ~45 feet wide, with gates at either end that close you in, like a caged wild animal.  And like a caged animal, your sailboat will not happily sit still in the cage, but rather squirm around as the Lockmaster lets the water in or out, and you will try to hold it in place with boat hooks and the slimy, wet ropes that are attached to the cement walls (you’re going to want to watch out for the aqua spiders that hide on them too, too).  During this process, you try not to scrape or slime your boat and also avoid hitting the multi-million dollar power yachts beside you as the water swirls around.  It’s stressful, don’t let my smile fool you.We are happy to say we avoided any collisions or scrapes, but for anyone else planning a similar voyage, here are our 5 top tips for lock success:

5) Have a plan for how your boat can pull up nicely parallel to a very tall (or very short, depending on which way the water is going) cement wall.  Some power boats have bow-thrusters that do this for them very nicely, but we just used our one propellor (and its prop walk) and a very carefully timed slow down, docking technique with boat hooks, fenders and lines. We watched some entertaining docking events go down in locks among crews who had not planned how they were going to get alongside the wall (short story – lots of swearing, some mild boat/wall smashing, maybe some tears).

4) Have the right equipment for protecting your boat.  We used lots of fenders, and a DIY fender board for this.  Having some old lines that you don’t mind getting slimed from the walls are great too, as sometimes there are fixed lines or cables (versus attached at the top but free swinging below) and you can loop a line around these to hold yourself in place.  Just be careful not to get them caught as your boat is going up or down (same for your fenderboard!) or you’ll have a bad time.

3) Have the right equipment for your crew, which for us meant work gloves and boat hooks (or any sturdy long stick used to push off the wall).  The ropes that you grab onto spend most of their lives sitting in swamp water, growing all sorts of new slime forms and just waiting to slip out of your hands.  They’re disgusting, and you definitely don’t want to bite your nails after handling them.

2) Slow down when entering the lock.  There is a finite “runway” to these “landing strips” of cement, and you do not want to slam into the boat in front of you, or the metal gates at the other end.  Also, we’re learning very quickly that a 40 foot boat keeps a lot more momentum than the 27 footer we’re used to, and it’s not easy or safe to try and manually slow these boats down without a cleat (there are lots of rings, but these take an additional couple of seconds to thread a line through).  Although Mark has now nearly mastered our clockwise prop walk, it can be a bit unnerving to see your stern moving towards the boat tied beside you as you back up.

1) Pay careful attention while descending or ascending.  CONSTANT VIGILANCE.  Or you’ll hit your boat against the wall / your boat against someone else’s boat.  Since our boat is shaped like an almond and not like a rectangle (looking at you, house boats of the Erie Canal), we don’t have one nice long flat surface to line up against a wall, but instead will swing as the water swirls around us, unless we are in a constant state of push and pull to keep ourselves straight.

We loved the scenery, people and free docks we’ve encountered along the Erie Canal…but we are very happy to be heading out of our landlocked waterway and onto the Hudson River.

(Alec) Baldwinsville

The whole point of this post is to show this ridiculously good looking sunrise that I photographed while leaving Baldwinsville.  Tagline, “Just coffee, no filter”.

IMG_8452

Sure, there are other cool sights (check out this old aqueduct!), but basically it’s a lot of…canal…and more canal.  They don’t call this “the ditch” for no reason.

IMG_8396 IMG_8399

 

Oh and here’s a shot of the janky set of pilings that we had to tie to in Rome, NY…we wouldn’t fit on the “nice” dock with our 55+ foot mast sticking off either end of the deck…

IMG_8455

Good news is – we’ve basically crossed the halfway point!  As of tonight we are tied up to Lock 16.  Hopefully, if all goes well, We’ll be in the Hudson by this weekend!

Let’s hear it for New York, New York, NEWWWWWW YORRRRRRRRKKKK

Small towns of the Erie Canal – our aquatic road trip of Upstate New York

We have almost been en route for a week now, and since we’ve entered the Erie Canal, our days have been filled with the quiet waterways, beautiful greenery and quaint canalside towns of upstate New York. The leaves are just starting to change, and although the evenings and mornings are chilly, the days heat up to sunscreen weather by lunchtime.

These have been our views for 7-10 hours a day lately:

Occasionally we transit a lock (we have ~35 to do to get all the way down to the Hudson River, more on those to come…), but otherwise we mostly motor along, taking it all in. Although it looks easy enough, it’s a very narrow and shallow channel (7-12 ft deep, and maybe 100 ft wide) and it takes steady concentration to avoid the various logs, shallow spots and curves the canal throws at us.
Each night we end up at a small town and tie up to one of their free docks (sometimes with free water, pump out and power too!). So far we’ve been to Holley, Fairport and Clyde, NY. These towns often have a lot of historical significant with the original Erie Canal (you can read more about that here) and we’ve enjoyed exploring these stops after our long motoring days.

Mark and Tara at the Fairport dock\

Fall flowers in full bloom / bicycle wheels to edge the gardens

We also have loved seeing the old canal barges and tugs that worked for the New York State Canal System, as well as the local boats who make this place their summertime home.


Canal selfie.  Canalfie.

Home sweet home!

First big day in the Canal

(Yesterday) The 26th was our first real day in the canal, and it was filled with “oohs” and “ahhhs”.  We wanted to take this route because we figured it would really take us through small town America, and so far it hasn’t disappointed!  As we motor along, we pass tiny towns, corn fields, apple orchards and small houses dotting the shore.  Every so often we need to call a bridge operator for a lift, but otherwise it’s all about keeping the boat in the middle of the waterway and enjoying the scenery.

IMG_8251 IMG_8257 IMG_8282 IMG_8339

We transited our first two locks in Lockport, and met the kind lock masters there.  John took me up to the gas station up the way in his Subaru to get a 5 gallon can of diesel.  Thanks John!  All in all the locks were pretty easy, but word on the street is they get harder when the water level is rising vs. falling…

IMG_8270 IMG_8271

As we motored past Gasport (ironically named) we saw a tiny little “Yacht Club”-slash-marina and asked if they had diesel.  Craig, the operator, responded, “Well, I can get ya some!”.  Sure enough I popped in his truck, we zipped up to the gas station and got another 20 gallons (and a 30 rack of beer).  This top up, plus the jerry can from Lockport and we were at a full tank.  See how easy that is??  Man, people are so friendly!

IMG_8305 IMG_8307 IMG_8314

Our day ended at Holley, New York – a small town of 1500 people with a little square, diner, grocery store, and pizza joint.  We tied to really nice docks with free power, water, bathrooms, and showers, and had a nice relaxing night.

IMG_8361

“No Diesel For You”

 

soupnazi

Soooo after de-stepping (day 3) we encountered the infamous Denny Wardell at the entrance to the Erie Canal.  He’s known for a number of things (read some reviews on Active Captain), but most specifically his hot button issue: Destepping masts.  Basically, if you don’t destep with him, he won’t sell you diesel.

We were down to a 1/4 tank, entering the canal and he has a prime spot right there….his only competition across the way was “SOLD OUT FOR THE SEASON”.  So what could we do?

I had a lovely exchange with him on the telephone which went basically like this “NO!  I won’t sell you diesel.  Why would I?  I make $20 bucks off you, while the guys down the way at Rich Marine make $300?  No thanks.  Have fun in the Canal without any fuel.  GOODBYE.”

Thanks Denny.

IMG_8228

Fortunately our luck changed once we got in the canal.  Aside from him, we’ve met some of the nicest people ever.