The heart of the ICW

I think we can say we’ve entered the heart of the ICW…

The water is now shallow all the time and we are constantly on the lookout for shoaling (especially after two “soft groundings” in the middle of the marked channel – probably no worse feeling),

The pelicans are almost outnumbering the seagulls (well…almost),

The houses are starting to get more and more colourful, and

WE’VE BEEN SEEING DOLPHINS!

The only thing we’re missing is warm weather, but we keep telling ourselves it’s coming :)

We’ve been slacking a bit on the photos – it doesn’t help that whenever we point the camera towards a dolphin, they get bashful (still no good pics yet but we hope they’re comin’!).  Also, it’s been FREEZING…hard to operate a camera with winter gloves on

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We had one exciting day in Mile Hammock Bay.  We decided to sit at anchor and wait out thunderstorms (which ended up being upgraded to a tornado watch), and the weather was crazy!  Pouring rain one second, sunny the next,  24 degrees fahrenheit with 100% humidity…it was wild.  I took a quick video (sry for the low quality, but you get the idea):

Later that night, we watched a boat drag anchor, try to re-set, but get snagged on another poor soul who had been in the anchorage all day with us.  It was painful to watch, buuuuutttt not so painful that I couldn’t snap a a quick iPad photo when noone was looking :)

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Dismal Swamp to North Carolina!

Damn, we’ve come a long way in 10 days!

Honestly we loved the Chesapeake Bay. We found amazing anchorages (Solomons, Jackson Creek, Chisman Creek), had some gorgeous sunsets and hope to spend more time cruising in “sailors paradise” again in the future.

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For now though – let’s keep on…pressing on!

As we got into Norfolk to start the ICW, we were quickly awakened from our sleepy daze by chatter on the VHF radio. It went something like this: “Warship 89, Warship 89, this is Warship 72, Warship 72, over”….”Warship 72, this is Warship 89. Switch to bridge-to-bridge channel 13, over.”…”Copy that. Switching to channel 13, Warship 72 out”.

…all this while we see the boat (apparently named Warship 72) crossing our bow at 20 knots.

"Warship 72, this is Sailing Vessel Tara, over"

“Warship 72, this is Sailing Vessel Tara, over”

Exciting stuff!

As we got into Norfolk, we realized that the US Navy is, shall we say…well armed. There were ships upon ships upon ships lined up in the harbour (everything from aircraft carriers to “warships” to hospital/red cross boats). It was quite a sight to see.

The whole area was pretty industrial and pretty cool despite the heavy military presence.

Inspiration for George Lucas?

Inspiration for George Lucas?

When we cleared Norfolk, we entered the Dismal Swamp, which actually wasn’t dismal at all. It was a nice break from the busy harbour, and reminded us of the Erie Canal that we’d transited so many moons ago.

The swamp apparently has tannins in the water which make it a very dark brown. It was like motoring through really strong cup of tea!

Hard to get a photo of the tannins haha

Hard to get a photo of the tannins haha

Next thing we knew, we were in North Carolina! We were spat out in a really nice little town called Elizabeth City. We were stoked to be there because my folks had made arrangements to drop by on their way home from SC! They pulled up just as we docked and we had happy hour on the boat, then went for a nice dinner (plus a couple bottles of wine) to celebrate! Couldn’t have been any better. Love yous!

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The next day = SUN! WARM! NO WAY! IS THIS POSSIBLE?! FIRST TIME in 6 weeks where we didn’t look like we were preparing to hike up Mt. Everest?! Ah yes (warning: the next photo is rated at least PG-13. Look away while you still have a chance), let’s just say we soaked it up while we could.

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We are starting to like the south :)

Unfortunately, we couldn’t enjoy it for too long, because a cold front has been blowing in and has brought beaucoup de rain. We’re sitting down below tonight (in Belhaven) letting our foulies dry below the bimini in the cockpit.

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All in all, we are REALLY happy with our progress over the past 10 days, and it feels AMAZING to finally be in the Carolinas. We may even make it to Charleston for Thanksgiving as planned (knock on wood)

Sigh :)  Time to open a bottle of vino and make dinner.

Virginia

We had a moment yesterday when we were getting fuel…when we saw a sign that said “Deltaville, VA” and Caitie looks at me and says “oh my gosh, are we in Virginia?!”…of course I played it all cool, being Captain and all but honestly I hadn’t even realized myself that we’d crossed into a new state (a fact I admitted later).

It turned out to be a balmy 60-something degrees with 5 knots of wind behind us and we spent the day talking about how we had crossed into our first “southern” state.

We enjoyed looking at the maps to see just how much progress we have made since the start of our adventure a little over 6 weeks ago.

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If all goes well, we will start the official ICW today. We are going to take the “dismal swamp” route (google it). Here’s hoping its nicer than its name suggests :)

Day in the Life: What do we DO all the time?

Preface: Many people have asked us “what will you DO with all your time on this trip?”. It turns out, planning where we are going and how we will get there takes up a lot of it.

Here is our Buzzfeed Top 10 (ok, 13) list of “What we do”:

1) Wake up, check weather (NOAA marine forecast, passageweather.com, “civilian” wunderground), make coffee.

2) Check engine, bilge, rigging, fuel, etc. Put on sweatpants.

3) Check iPad charted route on Navionics app, make sure we can make it (considering we slept in an extra half hour and now only have 9 hours of daylight to go).

4) Pull up muddy anchor chain and get under way. Read Active Captain reviews about our prospective anchorage/marina and make judgements about the people reviewing them (“He said the ice cream was expensive, but a large portion, so overall a good value”).

5) Wipe sea spray off face and bungee down ipad after large wave breaks. Check NOAA forecast again to make sure the weather is not building.

6) Make lunch. Determine if it’s a light weather afternoon (beer with sandwiches?) or a heavy one with a tricky harbor to navigate later (no sandwich, no beer, just Cliff Bar)

7) Take turns steering and snoozing, watching out for other boats (“is that tug boat moving?” / “I think it’s actually a lighthouse”). Also, crab traps. Perhaps boaters should consider boycotting those delicious little crab cakes considering the pots are basically booby-trapping the entire Chesapeake bay.

8) Start checking your watch, boat speed and chartplotter ETA compulsively at 3pm, knowing that you have a 2 hour window to make it in to harbor, find a spot to anchor and get all sorted out before it gets dark.

9) Turn on engine and speed up, growing increasingly hungry, cold and anxious to arrive on time. Realize you’re now going against the current and have slowed down 1 knot. Rev up.

10) Spend 20 minutes motoring around at a walking pace, arguing over which spot to anchor in (“when is low tide again? depth sounder reads 5 feet…”). Commit to one, set the anchor, and crack a beer. Use a coozie (to keep your hands warm). Enjoy the sunset for about 10 minutes then realize it’s now early November and freezing cold – go down below and make the early bird special.

11) Check weather again before 8:30pm bedtime, plot out tomorrow’s route and anticipated anchorage/marina and get a good nights sleep.

12) Wake up to howling wind at 1am. Check NOAA weather. Check anchor. Check landmarks around you. Convince yourself you’re not slipping. Go back to bed. (Still wake up frequently to check all those things again)

13) Finally fall asleep as the weather calms. Wake up to a gorgeous sunny fall day on the Chesapeake Bay, knowing you’re headed south towards warmth and mai-tai’s.

Exploration Day in Solomons, MD

We are halfway down the Chesapeake Bay, and it feels GREAT!  We had an awesome two days in Rock Hall, MD, where we stayed at a lovely marina for a day of treat-yo-self showers and shore power, as well as a couple of extremely successful marine store visits.

We have a CNG (Compressed Natural Gas) stove on Tara, which is great as it is often seen as safer than propane for marine stoves, however it is nearly impossible to find places to exchange your empty tank.  We had run out of gas at the end of the Erie Canal, and had thus been relegated to outdoor cockpit cooking with a propane Coleman for the past few weeks.  This wasn’t so bad… except that we couldn’t cook underway, and it was getting friggin cold making morning coffees outside.

Luckily for us, we found a great marina store that stocked CNG tanks, so we are beyond happy to be cooking indoors again (this morning’s breakfast burritos and coffee never tasted so good).

We used our dock time well, addressing a bunch of our laundry list of small boat projects, including fixing a small leak in our inflatable dinghy (it was missing a crucial O-ring) and replacing a moldy water filter for our galley.  Small wins, but they feel great.

Our first long sail day down the Chesapeake was super calm, and we even broke out the autopilot for the first time since Lake Erie, freeing us up a little bit to enjoy the flocks of brown pelicans dive bombing for fish around us.

Now we are in Solomons, MD, a boating destination on the Chesapeake Bay, and rightfully so.  It’s a beautiful area, and there are more sailboats here than we have seen in one spot…ever.  We’re anchored up Back Creek, and are loving exploring town while we wait out some more unfavourable weather.

 

Today’s activities included a local maritime museum/aquarium, where we learned about some Chesapeake boating history and also, the Megalodon.

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IMG_9475 IMG_9477I do all the rowing around here*  (*JK – we’re equal opportunity rowers)

On a humorous note, despite the plethora of books, electronic devices, charts, etc. we have on this boat, we are really enjoying using vintage car-travel maps for big picture planning and visualization.  We were gifted some by Jim E. back in Mentor, OH, and then jumped on the opportunity to pick up some more at a cool thrift store in Brooklyn, NY.
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Since the wind has been so light, and often in the wrong direction so far for us in the Chesapeake, happy motoring is actually pretty relevant :)

 

Chesapeakin’

Well, we hunkered down and waited on the hook for Saturday and Sunday in Chesapeake City. It was ugly – one day of pouring rain (though it broke temporarily for a nice sunset in the evening), and one day with 15-20knot winds dancing us all around the anchorage. We were in a very tight cove, with docks/rocks on all sides and spent the day playing the scope vs. swinging room game…not our favourite game. That said, we were SO HAPPY to be out of Cape May where it was showing 35-40+ knot winds and 12 foot seas!

We used the time to do some painting & reading – it was good to get the creative juices flowing again.

One nice break in the clouds on Saturday Night

One nice break in the clouds on Saturday Night

Art!  (and beer...and sandwiches)

Art! (and beer…and sandwiches)

When Monday rolled around it was time to get on with it. The gale warning had been dropped to a small craft warning so we took that as our sign (HA). It ended up being a nice but BREEZY/COLD day.

(edit: I think these next few photos are actually from our Atlantic City to Cape May sail which was considerably warmer…Picture this but bundled up with two hats/gloves/extra layers!)

More selfies - what can you expect there are only two of us and someone's got to steer!

More selfies – what can you expect there are only two of us and someone’s got to steer!

We were ready for some shore power/hot showers, so we decided it was time for a marina day in Rock Hall, Maryland. We were happy to get here – enjoyed a beautiful sunset and re-provisioned (can you believe we’re drinking Budweiser? It is America after all…)

Made it!

Made it!

Holy sunset, Batman!

Holy sunset, Batman!

Gratuitous sunset ring shot

Gratuitous sunset ring shot

This morning, we’ve been enjoying decent WiFi! Finally! We’re catching up on emails, enjoying our coffee and planning for the rest of our voyage down the Chesapeake. It’s gorgeous outside and we feel a bit guilty for not rushing out to sea while the weather is nice, but we need to recharge a bit (literally and figuratively).

First cup of the day :)

First cup of the day :)

Get to work!

Get to work!

OK enough bloggin’! I’m off to cook some (recently acquired) BACON & EGGS :)

Happy Halloween from Chesapeake City!

We made it!!! Sunrise to sunset, to the minute (with impeccable current timing) we made it down and around Cape May, up the Delaware Bay, up the Delaware River and through the C&D canal today. It was long, tiring, wave-crashy and cold BUT we are finally off the Jersey coast!

Phew.

For Halloween this year, we’re dressed as two kids who think it’s fun to sail in the North Atlantic at the end of October :)
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Happy Halloween!

Cape May!

Wow – what an incredible day! The seas were flat, we had 12 knots over the beam, just 40 miles to cover, and blue skies/full sun to keep us warm :). This is what sailing is all about!

Onward to Cape May Video

Unfortunately we won’t be checking out Cape May (proper) because we are anchoring out for a quick departure EARLY tomorrow am.

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We want to try our damndest to get up the Delaware bay to Chesapeake city before some seriously nasty weather hits the coast on Sat/Sun…

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It’s gonna be ugly, so we are getting the hell out of dodge and heading inland. Root for us!

Xo Mark & Caitie

The Atlantic.

We made it! Hot damn we set a few records for ourselves today:
-first sail in the Atlantic Ocean
-first night sail/incredibly early morning departure
-first 20knot breeze sailing on Tara
-longest day ever sailed (90 nautical miles)
-first time to Atlantic City
Annnnnnnd most jersey shore ever seen in one day (literally)

It was really a big one for us. I didn’t sleep a wink last night because I was teetering on the go/no-go decision…but we made the right one- We went, and we went safely. Now we are happily anchored just off of Harrah’s casino.

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Plus! Another bird landed on me and made friends today. I’m hoping this will be a trend :)

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Go time.

Ok, well we have been watching the weather all day and we are feeling good about the forecast. Our plan is to leave at 3:30am and make the trip down to Atlantic city! It is a long trek (almost 90 nautical miles) but we are feeling confident. Here is what NOAA is saying:

TONIGHT
NW WINDS 20 TO 25 KT…DIMINISHING TO 15 TO 20 KT
AFTER MIDNIGHT. SEAS 2 TO 4 FT. MAINLY IN NW SWELL WITH A
DOMINANT PERIOD OF 4 SECONDS.

MON
W WINDS 10 TO 15 KT WITH GUSTS UP TO 25 KT. SEAS 2 TO
3 FT. MAINLY IN E SWELL WITH A DOMINANT PERIOD OF 8 SECONDS.

Wish us luck! :)